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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.